Ten Books Islanders Ought to Read

Exploring Deception Pass by Jack Hartt
Chrome Legacy Window 8242016 81811 AM.bmpIMG_9624-003This week, Jack Hartt’s new book Exploring Deception Pass was published. A recent Whidbey News Times Article by Ron Newberry on the subject (State park manager shares tales and insight) suggests, “When one of Washington’s most breathtaking state parks is part of your everyday life for 12 years, you tend to gain some unique insight.” Anyone who reads Hartt’s book will agree. Exploring Deception Pass is filled with dozens of (b&w) photos and includes information about: the history of Deception Pass and Deception Pass State Park (DPSP); the park’s flora and fauna; specifics about trails, hikes, happenings, things to do, and suggested visitor itineraries; its workers, both paid positions and volunteer; personal anecdotes from the park manager and maps. In summary, you’ll find everything you ever wanted to know about Deception Pass and Deception Pass State Park somewhere within the 224 pages of this informative, insightful book.

Plants of the Pacific Northwest Coast by Jim Pojar and Andy MacKinnon
Chrome Legacy Window 8242016 82453 AM.bmp-001322B 4-23-2015 8-48-056After checking out this book every spring for several years so that I could identify the beautiful wildflowers that bloom in abundance at Deception Pass State Park, I finally bought a copy. I’ve found it to be the most useful, entertaining guide for local wildflowers, trees, shrubs, grasses, mushrooms, lichen and mosses.

Seashore Life of the Northern Pacific Coast by Eugene N. Kozloff
Chrome Legacy Window 8242016 82821 AM.bmp-001IMG_5638-004Once when I was completely stumped about a sea creature that I observed at Cornet Bay and Sharpe’s Cove at Rosario, I asked a UW marine biologist for help. He told me I’d found metridium senile, common name: plumose anemone, and recommended that I consult “Kozloff.” It’s a little textbook-y, but very helpful for both super savvy marine biologists and amateur sea life fans like me.

The Good Rain: Across Time and Terrain in the Pacific Northwest by Timothy Egan
Chrome Legacy Window 8242016 83015 AM.bmp-001IMG_7092-001This 1991 collection of essays by Seattle native and New York Times journalist Timothy Egan is stuffed to the gills with facts about the wildlife, water and land  in and around the Pacific Northwest. Each chapter begins with a map of the area under consideration, categorized by region and topic, including: a reclusive mountaineer’s conquests in the Cascade Range, local volcanoes, the wild waters around “We Ain’t Quaint” Astoria, the history of Seattle, apple harvesting in the Yakima Valley, the Native American Puyallups, and logging in the Siskiyous of southwestern Oregon. Although with a preachy style that would make Rachel Carlson proud, Egan is a fantastic storyteller with the ability to meld anecdotes, facts and opinion in such a way that every chapter is absolutely engaging.

Geology Underfoot in Western Washington by David Tucker
Chrome Legacy Window 8242016 82619 AM.bmpIMG_8118-001After hiking Oyster Dome and the Rock Trail in Bellingham and thinking about kettles and the erratic in Coupeville, I tried to find out more information about the geological features at these locations, which led me to this book. Twenty two chapters cover as many areas and include: Buried in Ice-Repeatedly Whidbey Island and Honeycomb Weathering Larrabee State Park. Since finishing it, I’ve placed several of the geologic adventures on my Things to Do list.

Once They Were Hats by Frances Backman
Chrome Legacy Window 8242016 82213 AM.bmpBeaver at Cranberry Lake-001One of my obsessions during this past year was to observe a beaver in the wild, which I’d known exist in the Anacortes Forest Lands for years but had been unable to find. All that changed when I learned that DPSP is home to at least five of the skittish creatures. Earlier this year, I arrived several times at the Park with the sun (sometimes just as the rangers were unlocking its gates) in hopes of encountering a beaver. It worked! Author Frances Backhouse teaches creative nonfiction at the University of Victoria – and it shows. Her writing is as engaging and entertaining as it is informative. Each chapter in Once They Were Hats covers a unique topic about the largest rodent in North America.

Morris Graves Selected Letters by Vicki Halper and Lawrence Fong
Chrome Legacy Window 8242016 82340 AM.bmpIMG_9772-001After first hearing about Morris Graves from a brochure about the Tursi Trail, I became obsessed with this famous artist who lived on the fringes of Deception Pass State Park in the early to mid 1940s. The book contains not only telling excerpts of correspondence to and from the artist, but also photographs of the man and his work. My favorite quote is from a 17 August 1942 letter, “We must—we MUST so live that we can sensitively search the phenomena of nature—from the lichen to the day moon—from the mist to the mountain—even from the molecule to the cosmos—and we must dream deeply down into the kelp beds and not let one fleck of the significance of beauty pass unappraised and unquestioned and unanswered—for here we (you and I and others) have a profound lead via beauty into the characteristic of God, and if we will live searchingly close to nature, we become aware of His ever-presence that is the awareness that heals the world—“ Wise words from a master Mystic.

Gathering Moss: A Natural and Cultural History of Mosses by Robin Wall Kimmerer
Chrome Legacy Window 8242016 81941 AM.bmpIMG_9110-001Along with the basics about such things as what moss is, (p 13) “They lack flowers, fruits and seeds and have no roots. They have no vascular system, no xylem and phloem to conduct water internally,” and where they live (p 15) “Mosses inhabit surfaces: the surfaces of rocks, the bark of trees, the surface of a log, that small space where earth and atmosphere first make contact. This meeting ground between air and land is known as the boundary layer,” are stories, reflections and memories of these abundant (22,000 species) interesting (well…now they are) plants.

The Mushroom Hunters by Langston Cook
Chrome Legacy Window 8242016 82125 AM.bmpLibraryinkycap-001Author Langdon Cook writes a lot about a guy named Doug Carnell, a quirky character (of course), who he spends time with in order to learn everything you ever wanted to know about harvesting wild mushrooms. Several others are also willing to show him the ropes, often involving picking without permits in areas where they are required and even on private land without the owner’s permission. The book covers such subjects as: mushroom hunting/hunters and collecting/collectors (chanterelles, porcini, black trumpets, boletes, truffles!), a mushroom competition, mushroom sellers/buyers, descriptions of mushroom-containing dishes, and David Arora (p 229), “…his book Mushrooms Demystified is largely responsible for introducing recent generations to the charms of mushroom hunting.”

101 Things to Do on Whidbey Island by Deb Crager
Chrome Legacy Window 8242016 82040 AM.bmpIMG_3695-002Deb Crager has compiled an excellent, long list of things to do on Whidbey Island, many of which are free, categorized by season (Year-round events, Winter, Spring, Summer, Fall), which includes beach combing, bird-watching, cooking, dancing, ferry-riding, golfing, scuba-diving, horseback riding and much more. A list in the back of the book includes all 101 things, which allows adventurers to mark (or not) and make notes about their experiences. There’s also an alphabetical index and, best of the book, great color photographs, many taken by talented local photographers.

Get a Piece of The Rock

The Rock Map11922 Deception Pass Land Becomes a State Park
[6]“The Deception Pass area was recognized in the middle of the nineteenth century for its potential as a location to defend against an enemy wishing to enter Puget Sound. The federal government set aside about 1700 acres of land on both sides of the Pass as a military reservation. Soldiers were stationed here during times of war. Guns on rocky promontories guarded the pass. At West Point, a searchlight scanned the waters of the strait in order to detect enemy ships at night.

None ever came…

When World War I ended, the United States no longer saw any military value to the reservation, President Harding committed the land to Washington State Park on March 25, 1922.” Civilian Conservation Corps workers built, lived and worked at two camps within Deception Pass State Park, one at Cornet Bay, the other near Rosario Beach, “The two camps were home to hundreds of young men from 1933 to 1942.”

The Most Famous Park Visitor of Whom You’ve Never Heard
Morris Graves CollageMultiples signs reading, “No Visitors,” “No Visitors Today,” greeted prospective callers to Morris Graves’ places of residence. Graves (1910-2001) was a tall, handsome, reclusive, prolific painter who bought 20 acres of land abutting the northwest corner of Deception Pass State Park on what is now called Rodger Bluff in 1939, lived and painted there for about five years between 1940 and 1947, moved away, and sold the property several years later.

During the time he lived at The Rock, Graves produced dozens if not hundreds of paintings including the Inner Eye Series, Joyous Young Pine Series, Journey Series, Old Pine Top Series and Leaf Series.

The Inner Eye
Unnamed Bird of the Inner Eye 1941He explained the concept of the Inner Eye in an 18 Nov 1941 letter, [1]“I paint to evolve a changing language of symbols with which to remark upon the qualities of our mysterious capacities which direct us toward ultimate reality. I paint to rest from the phenomena of the external world—to pronounce it—and to make notations of its essence with which to verify the inner eye.” Duncan Phillips, founder of the Phillips Collection, wrote of him, [3]“Graves is a mystic touched with genius, one who paints for the “inner eye.” He haunts the mind and the senses like night sounds in a great stillness,” and, “Graves led a nocturnal existence at The Rock, tramping under a full moon until midnight, as we are told, then returning to paint until morning. You have the impression that each new discovery in paint is a night scene, and then the scene clears up as though the eye has been accustomed to this twilight and dawn world.”

In the Night
In the NightHis series In the Night provides an example, [4]“I lived in a remote and extremely quiet part of the state of Washington. It was all stony hills, scrubby forests, and mountains that deflected every sound. You could hear the cattle, or a dog barking, from a great distance. The sound carried clearly, intensely. Living alone in that forest—kerosene lights, lamps after dark—you spent a lot of time outside, just listening and hearing what happened in the night—the forest creatures. That is the reason I painted this [In the Night], because I couldn’t identify certain sounds, and so any sound I could hear a paid attention to, and then quizzically and playfully tried to imagine what creature made the sound. I tried to paint a line of bird song. And there were some others sounds—surf that I tried to paint.”

Birds
Wounded Gull 1943Birds were a primary subject at that time, often accompanied by ‘white writing,’ a technique he learned from artist Mark Tobey, then made his own. About Graves’ bird knowledge, Phillips noted, “He is familiar with that sardonic owl, that mighty eagle, that moon-crazed crow. His heart has gone out to the young plover fluttering in the shallow surf, and to the old gull, who with twisted plumage and shattered wings sinks at last into his world of boundless sea and sky gone black.”

Graves Purchases Two Parcels, Dubs Property ‘The Rock”
Lake View Addition to Fidalgo City Washington PurchaseThe Rock PurchaseMorris Graves 1938According to Skagit County Land Records, on 6 October 1938 graves bought the rectangular-shaped western parcel that included The Rock at a Skagit County land auction for $40, and 10 months later, bought a rotated L-shaped adjacent parcel (Lake View Addition to Fidalgo City) to the east on 8 July 1939, also for $40, about 20 acres altogether. In a letter he describes a visit to the site (12 October 1939), “Yesterday Mark [Tobey] and I spent on The Rock—poised on that great terrace halfway down the west side. There were great cobwebs of geese in the sky, great mantels of mist hovering [over] the hilltops, great streamers of mist caressing the face of the rock, moisture falling from the black fir trees. The grass is brown and silver and bent, and the moss turf lush and green…herons and mud-hens [American coot] rattled their rattling noises in the marsh under us, and red-tailed hawks wheeled and screamed and soared through the mists like super poetry written in space, out from the face of the wilderness.”

Graves Completes Temporary Structure
1940s at The Rock courtesy of Robert YarberAbout a year later, in 1940, [5] “In the fall, Graves salvaged old lumber from abandoned homes and farms on north Whidbey Island to build a one room shed on the very top of The Rock,” and, two years later, [1]“Dorothy Miller, curator of painting and sculpture at the Museum of Modern Art, included Graves in her exhibition Americans 1942: 18 Artists from 9 States. This first New York show established Graves as a significant contemporary American artist. The museum acquired sixteen paintings from the exhibition. The director, Alfred Barr, purchased three additional paintings for himself. Graves used the money to complete the purchase of property on Fidalgo Island, Washington, where he built his first home, The Rock.”
Land Records confirm that Morris acquired the deeds to both parcels on 8 March 1942, a year of changes, complications and celebration. Using “two hands and a shovel” young men of the Civilian Conservation Corps finished up their work, primarily building structures at DPSP, at Cornet Bay and Rosario camps.

1942 Naval Air Station Whidbey Island Commissioned
“Just prior to the U.S.’s involvement in World War II, the Office of Chief Naval Operations charged the local naval district with finding the perfect location to re-arm and refuel planes defending the Northwest. Among five contenders, Crescent Harbor in Oak Harbor was chosen as the spot because PBY seaplane takeoffs and landings would be a breeze.

After Dec. 7, 1941, Pearl Harbor’s attack set off the construction frenzy with almost 200 men working through all weather conditions to finish the base. Farmers even turned over titles to ancestral farmlands so that runways and hangars could be built.

Construction of Ault Field, just north of downtown Oak Harbor, began in March 1942. It was far enough from populated areas to conduct operational training flights with live munitions. With favorable weather conditions and room to grow, Naval Air Station Whidbey Island was born.

NASWI was commissioned Sept. 21, 1942 as a base for seaplane patrol operations, rocket firing training, torpedo overhaul, and both recruit and petty officer training. It was later named Ault Field in memory of Cdr. William B. Ault, who went missing in action in the Battle of the Coral Sea.”

US Military Drafts Graves
[5]“In April, Graves is drafted against his will. He is at Fort Lewis by mid-June and by August has been placed in the stockade for his refusal to participate from 1942-43. He flees and is then held for eleven months, first at Fort Lewis, Washington, then at Camp Roberts, California.” In a letter, he shows his longing for the life he left (Camp Roberts 19 January 1943), ‘My heart “murmurs” with gasps as I dream back to the Northwest and The Rock and see the snow falling on the bleak trees and through them to the salal and ground and clinging to the dark-rock surfaces like the brushing of white on a great Sung landscape—and snow dissolving on the quiet surface of the lakes.’

Morris Graves and COER’s Commonalities
Bird Maddened by the Sound of Machinery in the Air 1944[5]“Graves is released from the military in March [1943] with an honorable discharge, which he verbally rejects. He returns to The Rock, but is disturbed by noise from the nearby military base on Whidbey Island; he paints Bird Maddened by the Sound of Machinery in the Air (1944) as a response to his frustration…Graves works on building a permanent house at The Rock, moving building materials alone by hand up the impassable driveway, and plants a garden. When he rests, he watches birds through field glasses.” William Valentiner, director of the Detroit Institute of Art describes The Rock (20 July 1943), “The place where he lives is indescribably beautiful. The house he built is perched on a rock like an eagle’s nest. It makes one dizzy to look down into the valley 1,000 [actually 400] feet below. The valley is covered with green trees, which, seen from above, appear like a green ocean. At each end of the valley is a lake [Pass], one with an island in the center [Campbell], and above the lakes rise other mountains, on one side in the far distance the Olympic Mountains, on the other, Mount Baker.”

The Beginning of the End
The mid-forties was the beginning of the end of his time at The Rock, which, years later, he didn’t blame on the noise (23 September 1952), “I left the protection of The Rock because I finally could not accompany all that it demanded physically of me and still have that extra energy needed to enter into painting! I couldn’t live there with anyone else. I had a total inability to live in disorder and without water. It was too rustic a physical way of life to accomplish any longer with what energy I had.” [5]“During the summer [of 1945], Graves moves from The Rock to Edmonds to develop the property.”

Parcels Sold to Private Parties
The Rock Real Estate Contract Sale Page 1 of 3The Rock Real Estate Contract Sale Page 2 of 3The Rock Real Estate Contract Sale Page 3 of 3Morris Graves Flickr Old Chum.bmpIn 1952, Morris Graves sold the western 12ish acre parcel for $1,500. The real estate contract indicates a $600 down payment and monthly zero-interest payments of $50 until payoff. A year later, he, Mark Tobey, Guy Anderson and Ken Callahan were made more famous when the foursome were featured in the September 28, 1953 Life Magazine Article Mystic Painters of the Northwest (Pp 88-89). The scenery (trees, sword ferns, moss and lichen) surrounding Morris Graves in a photo shot for the article would look the same today if taken in the Anacortes Forest Lands, Deception Pass State Park, or nearly any forested area on Whidbey or Fidalgo Islands. The deeds for the 20 acres of land near Deception Pass State Park, which he’d had since the late thirties, were transferred to the new owners in 1954 (3 March/The Rock and 31 August/Lake View Addition to Fidalgo City).

Get a Piece of The Rock?
Tursi Trail.bmpIt’s been nearly 70 years since Graves left his life of solitude at the edge of DPSP. The cabin he built burned to the ground a few months after his death in 2001, taking the life of its caretaker with it. And nowadays, not only can’t you “get a piece of The Rock” you can’t get to the rock: the land is still privately owned (current land-only value-about $360,000); however, you can get a glimpse of the area: Hike the Tursi Trail connector to get the closest politely possible to the face of Rodger Bluff; park in the pullout at the junction of Campbell Lake Road and Donnell Road and take a short walk east along CLR for a great view of the valley, the bluff and the lake; hike Trail 247 in the ACLF for a view from higher elevation or hike or drive to the top of Mt Erie, 1,000 feet above The Rock, to see the surroundings islands, lakes and mountains. Graves might be mortified to know that the park that helped provide the subjects and solitude that allowed him to do some of his best work in the 1940s now boasts over two million visitors a year; however, much of the beauty, though fewer creatures and less tranquility remain. On any given day outside of the super busy summer months, a visitor arriving as the park opens can experience similar solitude, hear the sough of the wind in the trees, see many of the creatures and features Graves painted, watch and listen as the wilderness awaken, try to imagine the idea of the “inner eye.”

Morris Graves’ Message 
IMG_9772IMG_9791Morris Graves admonishes a friend, who could just as well be any of us, with this (17 August 1942), “We must—we MUST so live that we can sensitively search the phenomena of nature—from the lichen to the day moon—from the mist to the mountain—even from the molecule to the cosmos—and we must dream deeply down into the kelp beds and not let one fleck of the significance of beauty pass unappraised and unquestioned and unanswered—for here we (you and I and others) have a profound lead via beauty into the characteristic of God, and if we will live searchingly close to nature, we become aware of His ever-presence that is the awareness that heals the world—“

References
Letters (typically preceded by a date)
[1]V. Halper & L. Fong, Morris Graves Selected Letters. Seattle & London: University of Washington Press 2013 Pp 49, 54, 152, 153, 159, 229, 260

[2]“No Visitors,” “No Visitors Today,” “No Visitors,” and 1940s photo
Seattle Times article, The House That Morris Graves Built by Sheila Farr 2001 http://o.seattletimes.nwsource.com/pacificnw/2001/1209/cover.html

Series painted during time at The Rock and some timeline information, Duncan Phillips quotes
[3]Morris Graves by F. Wight, J Baur, D Phillips University of California Press, Berkeley and Los Angeles California 1956 Pp 31, 41, 58, 59, About the Technic

[4]Morris Graves Vision of the Inner Eye by R. Kass, George Braziller, Inc., New York, 1983, P 42

Timeline information
[5]Northwest Mythologies by S. Conkelton & L. Landau, University of Washington Press Seattle & London, 2003, Pp 153-156

Deception Pass State Park/CCC
[6]Hartt & S. Wotipka, Two Hands and a Shovel. Deception Pass Park Foundation, 2013 Pp 2, 5

Skagit County Land Records (thanks to Judy Zavala for her kind, patient, beyond the call of duty assistance)

Images
Unnamed Bird of the Inner Eye 1941
In the Night 1943
Bird Maddened by the Sound of Machinery in the Air 1944
Wounded Gull 1943
Robert Bruce Inverarity Papers 1938 photo
1940s snapshot at The Rock Robert Yarber
Morris Graves about 1953, Old Chum Flickr

Traversing the Tursi Trail

Tursi Trail butterfliesTursi Trail head north endA pair of butterflies (possibly Papilio rutulus) fluttered along beside me as I neared the Tursi Trail head along Donnell Road on Fidalgo Island a few weeks ago. As I began my hike along the dusty trail, a garter snake slithered off to safety. Thimble berries and trailing blackberries lined the primitive path during the first part of the climb. I was thinking about the amount of volunteer work that must’ve gone in to clearing brush when I came upon a very impressively built section lined entirely with jagged rocks.

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Tursi Trail
My original plan had been to run, but the winding, varying terrain with 500 ish feet of climb over merely a mile made it difficult to do more than hike, at least at first.

Months before, I’d learned of a soon to be completed connector trail between the ACFL and Deception Pass State Park: the Tursi Trail. John “Johnny” Tursi, the connector’s namesake, passed away at age 98 on April 8, 2016, ‘After retirement, he and [his wife] Doris decided to do what they could to support forestlands and parks, public needs, improve animal husbandry, and other projects that would “live on,”‘ ‘Friends of John have accounted for some $3,500,000 he has contributed to community projects over the years,’ ‘John was generous with contributions to Anacortes Community Forestlands, Skagit Land Trust, Island Hospital Foundation, Skagit Valley Humane Society, Anacortes Family Shelter, and many others.’

I carried a copy of the Tursi Trail Guide, available on line, so I could hit the highlights.

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Tursi Trail miner's cabinSpilloverTursi Trail mineTursi Trail mushroomFirst stop: just inside the Deception Pass State Park boundary, at the trail’s high point, I came upon a rock-lined cave (mine entrance) and the remains of Miner’s Shack. I’ve read David Quammen’s brilliant book about zoonoses, Spillover, in which bats play a prominent role in transmitting diseases between animals to humans, so I kept my distance from the cave, circled what remained of the shack, then checked out a mushroom growing out of a fallen moss-covered log.

Chrome Legacy Window 782016 94530 AM.bmpTursi Trail viewSecond stop: an unobstructed view of Rodger Bluff, where mystic artist Morris Cole Graves “built his first house. He called it The Rock,” and lived there from 1940 to 1947. Several months after his death in 2001, the cabin burned to the ground. I’ve not found a single overview photo of the 65′ long completed cabin in spite of its 60 year existence.

IMG_9221Further south, I observed mushrooms, mosses lichen, balds and beautiful views of Campbell Lake, as promised by a couple of guys I encountered in the pullout along Campbell Lake Road where I’d parked, about half a mile to the north of the trail head. Third Stop: Red Rock Quarry. Forget-me-nots and daisies grew along the trail near the jagged cliff face at the site of the former quarry. Minutes later, I noticed the John Tursi Trail sign, and knew I’d reached the Ginnett Trail and completed the connector between the Anacortes Forest Lands and Deception Pass State Park trail systems! After checking out the view of Campbell Lake from a large concrete pad, I retraced my steps, stopping to photograph Indian pipe. A turkey vulture soared overhead and cedar waxwings nibbled berries as I made my way back to the trail head along Donnell Road and then to my vehicle. Note: you may NOT park along Donnell Road.

Tursi Trail south end

View from Tursi TrailCedar waxwing Tursi TrailIndian pipe Tursi Trail

 

 

 

 

Tursi Trail head towards Mt Erie

Chrome Legacy Window 732016 74508 PM-001Afterwards, I decided to fulfill the Tursi Trail’s purpose as a connector between the Anacortes Forest Lands and Deception Pass State Park by running within both systems on the same day.

The ACFLs, “cover nearly 2,800 acres within the City of Anacortes…There are 50 miles of multiple use trails in the forest lands.” The Washington State Parks site boasts, “Deception Pass State Park is a 4,134-acre marine and camping park with 77,000-feet of saltwater shoreline, and 33,900-feet of freshwater shoreline on three lakes,” with “38 miles of hiking trails.” The two systems combined include nearly 90 miles of trail. Except for those near the summits of the three highest peaks, Mt Erie (1,300 feet), Sugarloaf (1,275 feet) and Goose Rock (456 feet), most are great for trail running. Rain or shine, you are bound to see something awesome: birds, slugs, snails, garter snakes, frogs, wildflowers, shrubs, trees, mushrooms, butterflies, spiders, deer, otters, raccoon and coyotes.

After reviewing trail maps, brochures and other information I could find and using my experiences on the southernmost ACFL trails and the northernmost DPSP trails, I decided to complete a course with a lollipop stick in the center and a loop at each end. Grand total: 11 miles. 

Three of my trail runner friends, Erin, Michelle and Nina, joined me on a warm sunny Sunday afternoon, just before the 4th of July. We completed Trail 212/25 loop, headed south on Trail 220, and briefly along Trail 249 along the Heart Lake Trails. Trail 247 along the Whistle Lake Trails was new to all of us: first a climb, then rolling hills, then a switchback-y trip down Trail 248 to the trail head. We completed the paved section and reached the Tursi Trail, where we hiked/ran, depending on the climb and terrain. Having traveled the trail once before, I got to be the guide. We lingered a little at the Miner’s Shack and took in the view of Rogers Bluff and Campbell Lake from the concrete pad at the intersection of the Ginnett Trail, Ginnett Road and the Tursi Trail terminus before continuing along the 0.7 mi trail towards the 1.9 mi Pass Lake Loop.  During a quick stop at the rest room in the Pass Lake parking lot, we high-fived and quietly acknowledged the fact that WE LIVE HERE while observing a number of recreationists and Highway 20 congested with cars. A recent article in the Seattle Times, Quiet hikes and undiscovered cabins at Washington’s favorite state park contends, “During summer weekends, 1,500 campers and 5,000 day visitors typically frolic around this 4,134-acre park.” From our vantage point in the parking lot, we didn’t doubt it. Leaving the visitors and vehicles behind, we continued along Pass Lake Loop, then backtracked along the course we’d traveled earlier. We chatted with a rock climber at the base of Trail 248, hiked up to Trail 247, then returned to running. With nearly 10 miles under our belts, we quieted, saving our energy for the last couple of miles. Two and a half hours, 11 miles and nearly 2,500 feet of climb later, we returned to our starting point, happy to have completed our quest to run in both the ACFL and DPSP via the Tursi Trail, but even gladder that it was all over. Grand total encounters with other humans along the trails at DPSP: zero! Along the ACFL trails: 10.

On Golden Frog

IMG_8215Like the sirens to Odysseus, the frog chorus beckons me. From dusk to dawn I hear the call, pause, perk up my ears, wander towards the pond. Within a tiny plot of land, less than a tenth of an acre, an amphibian-friendly habitat exists where adults reproduce, eggs hatch, turn into tadpoles, finally form frogs. And the cycle begins again. Predators lurk and slither, hoping to make a meal out of a Pacific Tree frog. The sirens may not make the best comparison: at the end of my journey, a quick walk to just outside the limits of our fence, male frogs floating along the perimeter of the pond or near one of hundreds of cattails inflate their air sacs, then empty them with a bellow to attract females. Odysseus and his brethren faced a much more dangerous fate. As they hear my approach, they fall silent, but within minutes, my reassuring quiet allows them to begin again in a body of water that is simply a retention pond for a housing complex adjacent the Anacortes Forest Lands.

frog classification

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During the day, as I make my way along the edge, I rarely notice the two inch long frogs until they hop into the water, green with algae. Clumps of transparent eggs, like shiny clusters of grapes, await their transformation.

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life cycleIMG_8230

From the WSDFW site and  Animal Diversity Web, I learn about these amphibians, “Outside of the breeding season, adult treefrogs inhabit a variety of habitats, including woodlands, meadows, pastures, and gardens— at times several hundred yards from water. Note: Ponds, swamps, marshes, and similar spots are used only a few weeks or months of the year; treefrogs spend the rest of the year in surrounding areas,” ” Treefrogs secrete a waxy coating from their skin glands that allows them to remain moist and travel far from water,” “Toe pads on their front and hind toes enable treefrogs to climb in search of beetles, flies, spiders, ants, and leafhoppers. Adults have been seen and heard up in trees and outside windows two stories high.””Pacific Treefrogs are the most commonly heard frogs in Washington.”

Observing them during too many trips to count over a period of months, my assumptions about what I see are occasionally right, more often wrong,

Assumption: Frogs are green. Fact: “Adults…vary in color from a bronze brown to a light lime green, and from solid in color to intricate patterns.”During my stops at the pond, I see over fifty frogs in a variety of colors and patterns and recognize some that I see repeatedly.

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I photograph them in plan view, from the side, back and front. I realize through trial and error that images of these small frogs in water and land are best taken eye to eye, at their level of sight. Of the hundreds of photos I took at the pond, this one of a black-striped green frog peaking through the grass is one of my favorites.

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IMG_8371Assumption: Piggyback frogs are adult/juvenile. Fact: “Pseudacris regilla attracts mates using a choral song. Males call to females as loudly as possible and produce a croak so loud that they sound as though they are produced by multiple males. These sounds can be heard by numerous females. Once a female approaches, the male stops singing and attempts amplexus, a pseudocopulation act during which the male grasps the female with hist forelegs. Breeding takes place at night, near shallow water, typically after rainfall,” and, “Once females lay eggs in the water, both males and females abandon the eggs. There is no parental investment.” So, this nighttime shot was not, as I thought, a juvenile on an adult’s back, but…a couple caught in the act.

IMG_8665Assumption: Garter snakes eat only insects. Fact: “Garter snakes are known predators of Pacific treefrogs.” The first time I noticed Garter snakes near the pond, I knew they weren’t there just for the dragonflies, water striders and spiders. I felt fear for “my” frogs, especially when one of the largest ones I’ve ever seen slithered speedily between cattail stalks across the surface of the water. From Live Science, ‘…garter snakes “feed mostly on fishes, amphibians, and earthworms; other prey are occasionally taken.” The snakes immobilize their prey with their sharp teeth and quick reflexes. The saliva of some species contains a  mild neurotoxin that causes paralysis, making small prey easier to swallow. Like other snakes, garter snakes swallow their food whole, according to the ADW. [Herpetologist Jeff] Beane said “some larger prey may be dragged and chewed until killed by trauma.’

One day I noticed a salmon-colored frog standing stock still, looking…resigned? I realize that a baby garter snake, with a mouth barely large enough to encase the frog’s leg, was holding her captive. Within minutes, the tiny snake gave up and released its grip. The frog stretched her offended hind leg, leaped into the water, lived to tell the tale.IMG_8535

IMG_8318Week in, week out, happenings in the drainage were my window into the world of pond creatures. One evening I was surprised to see what turned out to be a pair salamanders mating. My excitement changed to concern when I tracked the species down and learn that the pair were Sierra newts, listed as an invasive species at the WSDFW site.

sierra newtPer California Herps, “Poisonous skin secretions containing tetrodotoxin repel most predators. This potent neurotoxin is widespread throughout the skin, muscles, and blood, and can cause death in many animals, including humans, if eaten in sufficient quantity. (One study estimated that 1,200 – 2,500 mice could be killed from the skin of one California Newt.) ”

IMG_8603On a sunny afternoon in early April, I stumble upon a Painted turtle, the first I’ve seen on Fidalgo Island, nearly hidden in the shade of a small, grass-lined ditch that drains into the pond. According to WarnerNatureCenter.org, “Painted turtles are the most widely distributed turtle in North America. They live in permanent freshwater habitats such as ponds, lakes, marshes, sloughs, and creeks.” Fun facts, “Scientists estimate that painted turtles can live up to 40 years in the wild, but in captivity they do not live nearly as long,” “The shell of a painted turtles is made up of 13 separate bone plates called scutes. When the turtle grows, it sheds the outermost layer of these scutes and grows new, larger plates underneath. The age of a turtle can be determined by counting the rings on the scutes,” and, “Turtles have no vocal chords, but they can sometimes make hissing sounds.”

IMG_9135IMG_9140Nearly three months have passed since the first time I strolled over to the pond. As the sounds have died down, so has my interest…until next year. I’ve been lucky enough not only to observe treefrogs in their natural habitat, but also newts, insects, spiders, birds, rabbits, deer, a turtle, and plenty of plants and wildflowers. Tiny, fascinating worlds are out there…sometimes right in our own backyard.

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Rookery Dookery Dock

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Chrome Legacy Window 5102016 104009 AM.bmpIn a small patch of March’s Point in Anacortes is a big secret: a heron rookery, also known as a heronry.

Padilla Bay National Estuarine Research Reserve claims, “The heron colony on March’s Point is believed to be the largest nesting area for Great Blue Herons in all of Western North America. Herons have nested at this site on Padilla Bay since the late 1970s. In 1984, just 42 nests were counted at this site, with a steady increase ever since…Now we think there are about 600 but we not able to count them all because many are on private land….March’s Point is located near three productive estuary bays; Fidalgo, Padilla and Similk. These and the farm fields of the Samish and Skagit river deltas, provide herons with areas to hunt for fish, frogs and small mammals. The proximity of so much rich foraging habitat makes it ideal for finding enough food to satisfy hungry, young chicks….They usually gather in colonies around late February to early March to build nests and find mates…Nests tend to be high in trees, sometimes many nests in one tree. They may be a flimsy collection of sticks 18 inches across or older nests, used year after year, may be bulky and up to 3 or 4 feet across. There are usually three to seven eggs per nest…Eggs incubate in 25 to 29 days. Both parents sit on the eggs, turning them about every two hours with their bill. Both parents also help feed the young by regurgitating food such as fish into the mouths of the young…Young birds begin to take flight about 60 days after hatching and abandon the nest after 64 to 90 days.” The secret is now out, due to a large protest of the nearby refineries scheduled for this weekend, especially concerns about the protesters’ presence potential detrimental effect on the heron.

March’s Point Refineries 
Chrome Legacy Window 5102016 103408 AMThe southeast corner of March’s Point (see green box) is the home of the heronry, but most of March’s Point proper is the site of two refineries, Shell Puget Sound Refinery and the Tesoro Refinery Anacortes. The Introduction to Anacortes page of the City of Anacortes’ site says, “on March Point’s meadows, land was being quietly acquired by Shell Oil as a site for a refinery which promised to fill gaps in the economy left by closure of several mills. The arrival of Shell in 1953 and Texaco in 1957 created jobs for locals and brought in a wave of newcomers to the community.” That means that the heron arrived on March’s point about 20 years after the refineries were built. Shell claims, “Currently, the plant processes as much as 145,000 barrels (5.7 million gallons) of crude oil per day…The refinery is the single-largest taxpayer in Skagit County, and also one of the area’s largest employers. Shell supports roughly $80 million in salaries and wages per year for the roughly 700 employees and contractors at the Puget Sound Refinery. According to a recent Western Washington University study, Shell and the neighboring refinery account directly for roughly 2% of the total employment in Skagit County, but support 10%-14% of all jobs in the county.” Tesoro’s web page adds that their refinery produces 120,000 barrels of crude oil per day and employ 350 full-time workers.

IMG_3933-001SkagitBreaking.com reports that this weekend Break Free Pacific Northwest, “has announced plans to “rally against fossil fuels” over a  three-day period in the March’s Point area where two refineries are located. According to their website, “between May 13th and 15th, climate justice activists across the Pacific Northwest will gather in Anacortes, WA and in a creative demonstration,  blockade all entrances to March Point by land and water with hundreds of folks engaging in nonviolent sit-ins, blockades, and kayaktivism.” About possible harmful effects on the March’s Point Heronry, the organization assures, “We have also heard concerns about the potential impacts of large groups of people gathering near the heron rookery at the southwest corner of March Point. We are committed to making sure that our presence won’t disturb the herons during their breeding season, we are consulting with local experts, and we are planning all of our activities well away from that unique and precious habitat.”

IMG_8265Drive, bike or run the 7.4 mile road that follows the perimeter of March’s Point for great views of spectacular scenery: Mt Baker to the east, Guemes and the San Juan Islands to the north and Anacortes is to the west, and birds. In August, travel part of the distance on foot by running the Anacortes Art Dash half marathon or, in late June, the Tesoro March Point Run .

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On a recent trip around the loop (while a white truck conspicuously marked “Security,” followed), I observed ducks, eagles, Canada geese, a seal (dead-on-road) and one of my favorite sights: a flock of small birds flying in tight formation that sparkled in the sun. My guess: the Black turnstone or similar.

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Chrome Legacy Window 5112016 111124 AM.bmpI first learned of the existence of the heron rookery during a visit to the Padilla Bay Interpretive Center. A display provides information about the site and the heron cam that supposedly operates M-F 9:00-5:00 during nesting season, but is currently out of service.
To see more heron action in person, follow Highway 20 west and exit onto March’s Point Road South just past the Swinomish Casino. Follow MPRS about half a mile to a large gravel pullout (green square on the map) and walk back along the road’s very narrow shoulder about a quarter mile towards the southeast. Expect to see dozens of heron flying between the breeding grounds and the waters nearby, often carrying twigs and sticks for their nests.

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During my first few trips out to find the heronry, the trees were bare of leaves, so the nests were easily visible.

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As luck would have it for the birds, the further into the fledging season, the more leaves (primarily maple) appeared to block a bystander’s view of the action. There is also no place to pull out within the limits of bird watching access, which is why it makes sense to continue beyond the heronry limits and walk back. Herons, when hunting, are typically kind of quiet. Most of the calls I’ve heard have been territorial warnings of the low honk type. Along the road adjacent the heron rookery now, it’s loud with the awesome sounds of adults and their young.

And until I’d seen nests in trees, I’d have guessed they placed them nearer the ground. You can see these biggish birds perched along a branch near or atop a smallish nest. Eagles build enormous nests much higher up, including several located along March’s Point Road, like the one shown below. Apparently, sometimes nesting eagles locate within or near a colony of nesting herons. Parents protecting juveniles likely feel unsettled with eagles in their midst, but they police the area, protecting the heron from other predators.

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Herons Worldwide (info in quotes is from The Cornell Lab of Ornithology)Chrome Legacy Window 4182016 102343 AM.bmp

“Male Great Blue Herons collect much of the nest material, gathering sticks from the ground and nearby shrubs and trees, and from unguarded and abandoned nests, and presenting them to the female. She weaves a platform and a saucer-shaped nest cup, lining it with pine needles, moss, reeds, dry grass, mangrove leaves, or small twigs. Nest building can take from 3 days up to 2 weeks; the finished nest can range from a simple platform measuring 20 inches across to more elaborate structures used over multiple years, reaching 4 feet across and nearly 3.5 feet deep. Ground-nesting herons use vegetation such as salt grass to form the nest…Males arrive at the colony and settle on nest sites; from there, they court passing females. Colonies can consist of 500 or more individual nests, with multiple nests per tree built 100 or more feet off the ground.”

IMG_9017-001IMG_9041During several trips this spring to the area of the rookery between March and May, bird activity increased significantly over time. If you brave a walk along the narrow shouldered road, pay attention to the sounds not only of the heron, but other birds like sparrows, towhees, eagles and hawks; check out the tadpoles transforming into frogs in the ditch; and enjoy the wildflowers, like Herb Robert and Nootka Rose. My advice: skip the camera, (the birds don’t come closer than about 100 feet from the ground, usually higher), take your binoculars and, most importantly, your quiet. Plan half an hour to walk and watch, then take a driving tour across the tracks and around March’s Point.

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Show Me the Study: Local District Poised to Adopt Discovery High School Math Curricula

How did the Anacortes School District (ASD) decide to ditch their Holt Mathematics text book curricula for high school in the fall of 2014 and replace it with Mathematics Vision Project, a discovery style Integrated Math sequencing Open Educational Resource (OER) that consists of a collection of worksheets? The ASD mistakenly accepted the notion that Washington State’s adoption of Common Core State Standards (CCSS) requires teachers to teach in a “Common Core way.” A group of AHS math teachers chose to pilot Mathematics Vision Project, an untested, unproven discovery style Integrated Math OER that the Office of the State of Public Instruction (OSPI) had reviewed due to the passage of HB 2337, which legislatively mandates OSPI to create a collection of OERs and “inform school districts about these resources.” The ASD’s decision to pilot MVP has forced the adoption of three new, controversial constructs: Failed “Discovery Learning” methodology, “Integrated Math Sequencing” and a confusing “Worksheet Curriculum” with no sample problems or depth.

Washington State’s Adoption of Common Core State Standards
Before Common Core, a March 11, 2009 High School Math Curriculum Study prepared by the Washington State Board of Education recommended Holt Mathematics for Algebra 1, Geometry and Algebra 2. A sample from the student text (quadratic equations unit) looks like this:Holt
Washington State signed on to Common Core in July of 2011. “Common Core requires us to teach this way,” is the standard line district staff say when asked why the change to discovery style math teaching because of”the three primary changes to math standards, focus, coherence and rigor.” The Myths vs. Facts section of the CCSS site clearly states, “these standards establish what students need to learn but do not dictate how teachers should teach.”

Discovery Style Teaching Methods
Several Studies compare teaching methods and clearly show that “Discovery or Constructivist” is highly problematic.

Discovery style teaching

Integrated Math Sequencing
As shown below, only 4 states have mandated “Integrated Math,” which integrated multiple topics into the same course. As of Feb 2016, however, 3 states have either removed or plan to remove the “Integrated Math” mandate (NC, WV, GA). This leaves Utah as the only “Integrated Math Mandate” state and there is rumbling that this will change:

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The Washington State Legislature Promotes Open Educational Resources
“In 2012, the Washington State Legislature directed OSPI to create a collection of openly licensed courseware aligned with the Common Core State Standards (CCSS) and conduct an awareness campaign to inform school districts about these resources.” The Legislature saw this as an opportunity to both “reduce the expenses that districts would otherwise incur in purchasing these materials” and “provide districts and students with a broader selection of materials, and materials that are more up-to-date,” as explained in the Executive Summary of the Open Educational Resources Project. The 2013 OER Review Summary states, “The results of this review do not represent an endorsement from OSPI as to the recommended use or adoption of the OER materials that were reviewed,” and “OSPI does not require the use of any particular instructional materials, including OER, by districts or schools.”

OSPI Reviews MVP
OSPI requested submission of OER math curricula in 2013. Mathematics Vision Project’s creators complied, ‘In the MVP classroom the teacher launches a rich task and then through “teacher moves” encourages students to explore, question, ponder, discuss their ideas and listen to the ideas of their classmates.’ A sample from the student version (quadratic equations) look like this:

MVPQuadratic

During the 2013 OER review of math curricula, OSPI hired 10 persons with math teaching experience to fill the paid curriculum review spots. Each was given several hours of assigned reading and one day of actual review training, Five were assigned to review each curriculum. MVP, listed as an Integrated Math, ranked high in the four categories shown below. MVP includes the positive part of MVP Materials Reviewed by Washington State 2013, the only review, at their site.

MVPreviews
But something funny happened on the way to the web page: MVP neglected to mention that it ranked the lowest for Quality of Explanation of Subject Matter, scoring below “Limited.” And MVP didn’t even garner a rating for Quality of Technological Interactivity because there isn’t any. Additionally, the EQuIP Overall Rating of Needs Revision (1.4) is defined as, ” Aligned [with CCSS] partially and needs significant revision in one or more dimensions.”

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The five reviewers answered the question, “I would use this in my classroom,” with Strongly Agree (1), Agree (3) and Disagree (1).

The biggest advocate (Strongly Agreed) included the following comments, “Much is required from the teacher to ensure that the attention to focus, coherence, and rigor result in achievement. There is much expected of the learner as well. The learner must internalize and exhibit many of the mathematical practices in order to productively engage in the work. Additionally, the course assumes that students enter the course with necessary prerequisite understanding and skills. Direction is given to teachers throughout the course to support students with conceptual deficits but aside from the first few units (modules) there are few supports provided students with procedural deficits…Led by a proficient teacher, and with additional assessments and practice exercises, this course could be outstanding. In its current state, in the hands of a basic teacher, it could flop.”

The most critical reviewer wrote, ‘it would be difficult for students to engage in the level of discussion required by the activities in a 50 minute period…The student text does not include clear explanations or examples, other than in the first two units. While the activities are really wonderful, the average student would not be able to work through this text and gain a clear understanding of the course. The links to other websites included in each homework assignment do provide explanation, but it would be helpful to see some examples in the text as well as summaries of the mathematical concepts that are addressed in each lesson. The format of the materials almost feels like a “flipped classroom.”’

And an “Agree” reviewer cautioned, “Most tasks that do cover items in the CCSS content standards tend to address multiple content standards though coverage is somewhat random and may touch upon many standards but not fully address any one single standard…”While the content coverage is weak and very little instructional support is provided many of the tasks do provide real-life contexts in which students are asked to consider open-ended situations and come up with solutions that have the potential to engage students in rich problem solving and help develop thinking skills in alignment with CCSS standards for mathematical practice…While the task creates opportunities for students to persevere in solving the problem and create their own graphic and mathematical models, use of this task in an actual classroom would require considerable teacher instruction to provide background understanding as well as scaffolding to allow diverse students to meet the objective of ultimately creating a graph and equation to model the situation. This example is typical of other tasks in the collection in that it asks students to engage in problem solving but does not provide instruction to support development of prerequisite skills nor scaffolding for diverse students…To bring this item into full alignment with CCSS and provide materials that would allow it to be used as a full curriculum would be a major undertaking.”

The Napa Valley Unified School District provides the only published side by side pilot of multiple math curricula that includes MVP. Twenty-five teachers piloted at least one of the three curricula: MVP, College Preparatory Mathematics and Center for Mathematics Education. The results: they recommended CME for Math 1, 2 and 3 (an integrated math approach). Votes against adoption of MVP: 61% of teacher responses, 78% of parents and 30% of students.

The Anacortes School District’s High School Math Curriculum Adoption Process
Between the completion of the 2013 OER Review of math materials and the fall of the 2014-2015 academic year, AHS math teachers chose to pilot Mathematics Vision Project for Algebra 1 and Algebra 2 and College Preparatory Mathematics for Geometry. During an Anacortes School Board meeting the first year of the pilot, the AHS Math Department shared the status of the pilot with board members, “This year students will be taken a CCSS-based math assessment, so math teachers advocated for using curriculum that is based on Common Core…Early in the year it became clear that students were struggling with learning math in a more “Common Core” way (more group work, deep thinking, justifying reasoning, and perseverance).” Included was a list of parent/student concerns and possible ways to address those concerns and improve student learning.

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In spite of concerns, the ASD chose to pilot the curricula for a second (2015-2016) year, and because one period was too short to get through the material, they doubled down on Algebra 1, making it a two-period class. I met with the principal and math chair on the last day of class of the 2014-2015 academic year when I learned that my daughter would be forced to attend this two-period MVP Algebra 1 class because I thought it would be too much and that she was being treated like a guinea pig.

In January of this year, I met with the AHS math chair and principal to voice my concerns about my student’s experience in the two-period Algebra 1 MVP math class and find out how other students were performing with the curriculum. They were unwilling to provide data about AHS students’ performance in Algebra 1, even though this information had been shared publicly at past School Board meetings. They would only say that the Class of 2019 students’ poor performance this year was because they were a “low cohort,” and students who failed Algebra 1 at or before the end of the first semester had “failed in the past.” But I am a skeptic, so I checked the data. The 6th through 8th grade MSP and SBAC scores for Anacortes School District students in the Class of 2016 to Class of 2019 were, on average, about 25% above the Washington State average. Assuming students who failed Pre-Algebra would not be placed in Algebra this fall, the “failed in the past” could only have referred to the Class of 2019 pass rate on the SBAC, which was low (60% excluding no score) and would qualify 40% of Class of 2019 students as having “failed in the past.” This seems disingenuous. The SBAC is new, different and more rigorous than the MSP.

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In Conclusion:
In spite of our group’s efforts, the ASD adopted MVP and CPM at a June 15, 2017, School Board Meeting. The District proudly points to student performance data on the SBA ELA and Math scores, which are above the state average, and the US News and World Report High School Ranking of #13 in the state with a mathematics proficiency rate of 44%. Cindy Simonsen, Executive Director of Teaching and Learning in the ASD assured me by email, “The algebra class at AMS will use the same materials as the high school algebra course,” yet, accelerated middle school students continue to use Holt while those who don’t take Algebra I until high school are forced to use MVP, the District’s adopted curriculum.

(Note: Scott Smith contributed to this post)

Leave it to Beavers

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Hear that sound? It’s a call to action for North America’s largest rodent to make it stop: running water. Of all of the species of rodents in the world, Castor canadensis is second in size only to Hydrochoerus hydrochaeris, the capybara. My curiosity about this creature began while I was running. During a morning trail run, not far from the finish of a five mile loop around Little Cranberry Lake, we traversed Trail 12, which parallels Little Beaver Pond. Upon arrival, we did what we usually don’t: came to a dead stop, only because it would have been impossible to miss the conspicuous signs of beaver activity: fallen aspens with their ends formed into points on either side of the spot where the trunk separated from the stump and piles of wood shavings situated near upright trees with bare-bark spots ranging in size from smallish to largish. The the icing on the beavers-have-been-here cake: a lodge! Ever since that day, I’ve been determined to encounter one of the animal kingdom’s most amazing engineers in the wild. Unfortunately, on more than a dozen trips to Little Beaver Pond, I’ve been shut out. In the meantime, I’ve watched a documentary entitled Leave it to Beavers and looked up information online at places like the Department of Fish and Wildlife site, “Beavers have poor eyesight but excellent hearing and sense of smell,” and ” Sounds…include whining (noises made by kits), a breathy greeting noise, and loud blowing when upset,” that transformed a spark into a flame. Here’s a quick listen at one of the sounds they make.

Once They Were HatsIt’s also why, when I noticed the paperback Once They Were Hats at Watermark Books in Anacortes, I bought it on the spot. The back jacket blurb provides a perfect summary, “Frances Backhouse examines humanity’s 15,000-year relationship with Castor canadensis and the beaver’s even longer relationship with North American landscapes and ecosystems. From the waterlogged environs of the Beaver Capital of Canada to a bustling workshop where craftsmen make beaver-felt cowboy hats, Backhouse sifts through the millennia of castorid existence in the company of paleontologists, arhaeologists, First Nations elders, historians, hatterss, fur traders, trappers, and, of course, beavers.” In Chapter 8 The Mighty Beaver, she accompanies a biologist named Dr. Greg Hood, “a senior research scientist with the Skagit River System Cooperative” to reach beaver dams and lodges by way of skiff to Steamboat Slough, part of the Skagit River Delta located in the north part of Everett about an hour from Oak Harbor (174-175), “The truly unusual thing about Skagit Delta beaver dams is that they get completely submerged every time the tide comes in,” “mapping and measuring the length, width and depth of low-tide pools–those created by beaver dams, as well as depressions formed by bank slumps or driftwood–along 13 kilometers of tidal channels in the shrub zone…When he crunched the numbers generated by his field research, the results were striking: the presence of beaver dams quadrupled the amount of low-tide pool habitat in the channels, and the pools held 12 times more juvenile Chinook salmon than the shallows.” He learned that beavers were, “providing low-tide refuge for these fish.” When I realized that these beaver dams and lodges were so close, I studied Dr. Hood’s map from Beaver in Tidal Marshes: Dam Effects on Low-Tide Channel Pools and Fish Use of Estuarine Habitat (Fig. 1), which shows the location of over “125 beaver dams and 14 lodges.” Unfortunately, I own neither a skiff nor a kayak, so I had to give up on my plan to see them in person.

park mapAmidst my obsession, I came upon an article in the WNT, 2015 was a busy year for state park, that contained an important fact: Deception Pass State Park’s Cranberry Lake is home to beavers. In early January, I stopped by the DPSP office, and asked Ranger Aggergaard about the article. He smiled, grabbed a campground map and marked on it locations he’d seen beavers: along the north side of Cranberry Lake where the park road follows the shoreline from east of the swimming area to just west of the dock.

IMG_7451IMG_7673The following morning, I returned on a reconnaissance mission on a day with clear skies and temperatures in the forties–too late, I knew, to see the nocturnal creatures. At the specified (first) pullout, I spied: cormorants, Canada geese, mergansers and some sparrows. Near the first entrance to the campground, I found the beaver-felled-trees that had been removed to within a foot of the break point. At the last pullout before the parking lot, I noticed a family of raccoons, which I’d never seen before in the Park. Off towards Rosario Strait, gulls circled a crabbing boat as the crew pulled its pots with the snow-capped Olympics as a backdrop. Walking along the swimming area, lake water pressing underneath a layer of ice made sounds like cricket chirps.

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IMG_7494Two days later, I arrived at 7:45 am, parked at the first pullout, cut my lights, rolled down my windows, and waited in silence. Hooded mergansers floated while eagles called. Reveille at NAS Whidbey marked the time as 8:00 am. Minutes later, my heart raced as I noticed what I’d hoped to see: a conspicuous V shape making its way towards me along the edge of the lake. As it neared, it submerged. When it hadn’t reappeared ten minutes later, I continued towards the West Beach parking lot. As I passed the road to the campground, I noticed a stout, wet rodent surveying the lake. It swam off, but a second and third beaver appeared. It was worth the wait of over a year when I finally encountered these brilliant builders. I returned to the bench where a beaver tail-slapped the water.
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IMG_7656IMG_7676On several subsequent trips, I arrived just after dawn, but before the sunlight had reached the lake and waited on the bench. A beaver broke through the ice and headed east. I hiked the short 0.3 mile distance between the dock and the bench.

Cranberry Lake at Deception Pass State ParkIMG_7770A sign indicated it was beaver territory, but it was unnecessary: felled logs lay in several spots. On a different trip, I met Ranger Rick as he unlocked the gate. He smiled, shook my hand and pointed to the beaver that was in the same spot it had been before – a stone’s throw from where we stood. I saw a second one, but he scared him off. He slipped into the water, sending bubbles to the surface.

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IMG_7762-001Along the trail to the dock, I flushed a heron, heard a Belted kingfisher’s call, and saw my second set of submerged beaver bubbles. Two swam nearby as Trumpeter swans situated towards the south honked. Yesterday, I made one last trip, knowing that my presence was affecting the beavers’ behavior. The rangers greeted me as I waited. I saw one near the gate. Half an hour later, it was time to go. As I walked back to my vehicle, I noticed what would have been the noisiest salad-making chef ever, ripping away at at thick leaves: a beaver was eating his way through one salal leaf after another. Before I said goodbye to the beavers of DPSP, I snapped one last photo.

Beaver at Cranberry Lake

Beaver watching takes perseverance, patience and a lot of quiet. A little intel helps as well. The twilight hours during which you might observe them aren’t conducive to photo taking. Plus, their skittishness makes leaving your camera at home in favor of naked eye or binocular-aided viewing your best bet. Observing these creatures in the wild, a few miles away at a park I’ve visited over a hundred times, reminded me that sometimes…what we are looking for is right in front of us.

Eaglemania

Silent Spring by Rachel CarlsonBald eagles are found only in North America. In Washington state, “The early summer bald eagle population when white settlers first arrived in Washington may have been around 8,800…Persecution, the cutting of forests, commercial exploitation of salmon runs, and finally the use of DDT reduced the state’s population to only 104 known breeding pairs by 1980…The population has recovered dramatically with the ban on DDT use after 1972 and increased protection for eagles and eagle habitat…In 2005, there were 840 occupied nests…If there is no decline in the number of nest sites, productivity, or survival, the population may stabilize around 6,000 eagles.” By 1963, with only 487 nesting pairs of bald eagles remaining, the species was in danger of extinction…As the dangers of DDT became known, in large part due to the 1962 publication of Rachel Carson’s book Silent Spring, the [EPA] took the historic and, at the time, controversial step of banning the use of DDT in the United States…Following enactment of the Endangered Species Act of 1973, the Service listed the species in 1978 as endangered throughout the lower 48 states, except in Michigan, Minnesota, Oregon, Washington, and Wisconsin where it was designated as threatened…In July 1999, the Service proposed to remove the bald eagle from the list of threatened and endangered species.”

Bald Eagles on Whidbey Island

Crescent Harbor Whidbey Island Bald eagle
Crescent Harbor Whidbey Island Bald eagle“Once listed as a federally endangered species, the bald eagle’s population rebound is evident on Whidbey, where an aerial survey conducted by the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife in 2005 revealed 47 nesting pairs of eagles on the island. Since that study, that number has risen to about 52 or 53 pairs, according to [Steve Ellis, former president of the Whidbey Audubon Society]…”On Whidbey, the sight of a bald eagle is often a daily occurrence for many residents.”

Dugualla Bay Whidbey Island Bald eaglesIMG_5848-001IMG_5861-002During the ten years I lived on Whidbey Island, I encountered dozens of Bald eagles. In a typical week, I see several of these majestic birds, unmistakable as a bright white head atop a chocolate brown body. They tend to perch on wooden poles along Dike Road in Dugualla Bay, which is the area I photographed the adults in the collage. I observed the juvenile eagle from my living room window! Smaller birds seem to love to pester eagles, like the osprey in the bottom left photo. I’ve learned from observing them that, like people, each eagle looks a little bit different. One of my favorite eagle encounters was of an adult eviscerating a cormorant on the edge of Cranberry Lake in Deception Pass State Park in November of 2014.

Skagit River Eagle Watchers
Skagit River Bald Eagle Natural Area MapThe Skagit Eagle Watchers are a group of volunteers who track eagles along the 55 mile corridor from Sedro Woolley to Newhalem and educate eagle enthusiasts within the 8 mile stretch along the Skagit River between Rockport and Marblemount. The organization publishes a weekly eagle count by zone from mid-December through January. Volunteers observed nearly 160 eagles during the December 31, 2015 count, “The Eagle Watchers Program is a joint partnership with the US Forest Service, Washington Department of Fish & Wildlife, WA Department of Transportation, Rockport State Park and the Skagit River Bald Eagle Interpretive Center. Thanks to abundant runs of wild salmon, the Skagit River Watershed boasts one of the largest wintering populations of bald eagles in the lower 48 states…Since 1992 the Eagle Watchers program has played a vital role in protecting this species by managing the attention they attract.” Find a map of the best places to observe eagles at the Eagle Watcher’s and United States Department of Agriculture site.

Skagit River Eagle Bald Eagle Natural Area 30 December, 2015
Chrome Legacy Window 142016 24210 PM-001Last week, my husband and I made the nearly 60 mile trip from Anacortes to the Skagit River Bald Eagle Natural Area. We arrived at the first stop: Howard Miller Steelhead Park, at about 11:00 am. From the nearby bridge, we observed only one eagle perched in a tree nearby. The highlight was our first ever glimpse of a salmon carcass along the riverbed. Spawning salmon are reason eagles arrives in such great numbers along the Skagit River this time of year. I spoke with a volunteer who said that the lack of eagles that day may have been due to the birds in flight taking advantage of the thermals.

Chrome Legacy Window 142016 24824 PM.bmpEaglemania2Second stop: Milepost 100, where the biggest surprise was the elderly guy walking along Highway 20 carrying a PEACE sign. One eagle flew high in the sky. A Common merganser swam by, dipping her head underwater in search of food.

Chrome Legacy Window 142016 25638 PMBridge towards Fish HatcheryLast stop: the Marblemount Fish Hatchery. Two persons carrying cameras walked along the narrow road as we entered the grounds and arrived at a large parking lot next to the hatchery. A dozen gulls waited on the metal gratings over fish filled tanks hoping to get past netting that protected the fish. There wasn’t an eagle in sight…sigh, so we left.

Oso Land Slide site
Oso Land slideWe returned home by way of Highway 530 in hopes of seeing what remained of the Oso Land Slide, “The site of the deadliest land slide in U.S. History. The SR 530 Flooding and Mudslide disaster occurred at 10:37 a.m. March 22, 2014. It took the lives of 43 people and injured 10 others, destroyed 36 homes and flooded 9 others as the slide material dammed the North Fork of the Stillaguamish River.” Signs posted along the side of that stretch of highway prohibited stopping, but we came upon a small pullout with several parked vehicles. An informational sign provided details about the disaster and rows of small trees decorated with mementos, one for each victim.

Skagit River Bald Eagle Natural Area 1 January, 2016
Howard Miller Steelhead ParkMarblemount Fish HatcheryAmerican DipperCommon merganserIMG_7372I am not a quitter (plus, I love birds), so I awoke at 7:00 am on the first day of the year to try again during a cold, clear day. En route, I noticed half a dozen hawks perched in trees. Ten Trumpeter swans flew over near Burlington. Everything was covered with a thin crunchy layer of frost that looked like a dusting of snow. I sighted the first Bald eagle of the day at MP 78, another at MP 79 and a third at MP 90. I arrived at At Howard Miller Steelhead Park at about 9:00 am, an hour after sunrise, though the sun barely blanketed the tops of the nearby mountains with a gentle morning light. An eagle perched in a tree near the bridge-just like last time. A pair of eagles watched the river from nearby. Tour boats awaited a trip along the river. My return to MP 100 was disappointing. Again, one eagle. Again, the PEACE sign guy. At the Marblemount Fish Hatchery, I arrived as a white-bearded worker in winter gear shooed away the gulls that were hoping for a chance at the fish protected by netting. I greeted a couple of fisherman who planned to bait fish for Steelhead in the nearby Cascade River. I walked down a path towards Clark Creek and encountered a female Common merganser that appeared to be breast-stroke-like, siphoning the water through her beak. An inconspicuous small brown bird was submerging its entire body at intervals along creek but soon flew off. It was the first time I’d seen an American Dipper! Beyond the creek’s opposite shore, I could see five eagles, three adults, two juveniles, battling over what probably a fish carcass. An adult ate away while the others looked on. This was to be the best spot of the day. As I watched from afar, the hatchery worker encouraged me to move closer, so I did. Before I finally left because my fingers and toes felt frozen from the 25 degree temperature, I snapped one of my favorite shots of the day, of a sparrow on a grate above the hatchery.

Skagit EaglesOn the return trip, I stopped at a pullout to observe three eagles hunting from the same tree. A fellow eagle watcher showed me a few of the amazing shots he’d taken with his super extreme telephoto lens. Three other eagles were visible: two juveniles in a tree near the river and an adult on a small sand bar within the waterway. I watched and waited while others did same. In my second eagle observing venture, I’d seen: 3 along the highway between Sedro HMSP, 3 at HMSP, 1 at MP 100, 6 at the Fish Hatchery, 6 near HMSP and a bonus one as I reached Fidalgo Island, for a total of 20 eagles in one day…EAGLEMANIA. My advice: arrive as close to 8:00 a.m. (when the sun rises) as you can. Spend less time trying to photograph and more with binoculars. Unless you have a super mega telephoto lens with tripod, your eagles will likely look like tiny white specs. Dress for the weather. Be patient, but beware: eagle watching is addictive. I might just go back once more…

Washington State Ferries

Kennewick
I began this post as a way to share a few ferry photos, but controversy concerning the Washington State Ferries (WSF) sent me in a different direction. I feel fortunate to live in an area that allows me the opportunity to choose to travel occasionally by sea rather than land, typically along the Mukilteo-Clinton route, one of the two most traveled in the WSF system (the other is the Edmonds Kingston). Twenty percent of all passenger trips and fifteen percent of all vehicles use each of these two routes every year. These facts did not surprise me, others did. Some positively, others…not. First the good news.

About Washington State Ferries
Vessel classes

According to the About Washington Ferries page of the WSDOT site, “Washington State Ferries is the largest ferry system in the United States, serving eight counties within Washington and the Province of British Columbia in Canada. Our existing system has 10 routes and 20 terminals that are served by 22 vessels.” The WSF Traffic Statistics page indicates that in 2014, total ridership was 23.2 million persons (that is not a typo), up 2.7% from the previous year. In 2002, the first year for which data is available, ridership was 25.1 million, it declined for the following ten years, bottoming out in 2012 at 22.2 million persons, but has been on the upswing during the last two.

Ridership Stats 2014

WSF routes run as far north as Sidney on Vancouver Island in Canada and as far south as Point Defiance in Tacoma as shown on this route map.

seagulls 7-10-2013 4-48-28 PMMore positives: no matter how short the trip, riders who make their way to the upper deck are bound to enjoy the experience. Seeing these juvenile gulls one mid-July day as we departed the Coupeville terminal was one of my favorite ferry-travel wildlife encounters of all time.

Best, most time efficient experience for those who don’t make a Reservation ahead of time: arriving in time to make it on board a vessel in the process of loading. WSDOT recommends that, “Vehicles should be in line at least 20 minutes prior to scheduled departure time and are loaded in order of arrival with a few exceptions,” which is good to know because once you’ve paid your fare at the toll booth and been directed to one of many lines, the line loading order may not seem logical to drivers. If you are traveling by vehicle, make a reservation to ensure your spot on board: walk-on passengers and bicyclers are guaranteed a spot.

History
Steilacom IIThe Washington State Ferries system has been in existence since 1951, when “a newly-created Washington Toll Bridge Authority, now known as Washington State Ferries” bought Puget Sound Navigation Company’s terminal facilities and ferries except those along one route for $5 million. “In its first year of service, the state-operated ferry system carried approximately four million passengers. Ferries were originally planned to be a temporary solution to travel across Puget Sound until bridge structures could be constructed, but eight years later “the Legislature rejected the plan to build numerous cross-sound bridges.” Over the years, the WSF has added newer, larger vessels to its fleet to meet demand. One of the more recent was the Tokitae, the first Olympic class ferry, with a construction cost of $144 million. Controversy accompanied the craft when it went into service on the Clinton-Mukilteo route in June of 2014, Rocky start for new state ferry; lawmakers demand ‘major overhaul’, “The Tokitae has a design flaw that causes some cars to scrape bottom on the edge of ramps. Coursey says crews have to sort vehicles by size and weight and direct them either to the main deck or side ramps.” A two minute thirty second time lapse video shows the complexity of ferry construction:

Funding
Funding of the WSF system from transportation taxes has declined over the years. According to a 2011 article in The Capitol Record, entitled Staying Afloat: Challenges Facing Washington State Ferries, the problem boils down to the elimination of the MVET, “The funding problem: in 1999, Washington voters approved Initiative 695, a measure that eliminated the state’s motor vehicle excise tax – a tax imposed on the percentage of a vehicle’s estimated value….The car tab tax is now a flat fee of $30. The MVET, as it was known, was a critical funding source for ferries. With its repeal, the governor’s office estimates the system has lost $1.2 billion over a decade. Ferry officials say the projected shortfall over the next 10 years is nearly $1 billion more….Fares pay for about 70% of daily operational costs of running the ferries. For comparison, a typical transit system recovers less than 30% of its costs through ticket sales.”

The DOT reports, “Our vehicle fares are based on a vehicle’s length, height, and width, as well as the distance you will be traveling on board our ferry.” Fares, set by the Transportation Commission, vary from $3.25 per in-vehicle or walk-on passenger traveling on the Port Townsend-Coupeville ferry to $19.25 for the Anacortes or San Juan terminal to Sidney, BC. Prices for peak season, which runs from May 1 through September 30, are higher only for vehicles and drivers paying full fare.

As shown on this Funding Sources graphic, ferry fares are a significant source of income in Washington State, $357.2 million for 2015-2017 budget. The Revenue Recovery rate (RRR), the ratio of fares collected to operating expense, provides a common way to compare costs for different modes of transportation. For 2015 to 2017 at least, the RRR for the WSF system is (357.2/467.2) or 0.76 (76%).

WSF Funding sources
fare recovery 12-26-2015 11-35-34 AM.bmp.jpgIncluding Capital Costs into the ratio ($303.3 million)-and why aren’t Capital costs included in the standard of comparison-for the WSF system-the ratio of Ferry Fare collection/Capital plus Operating cost is 0.46, which is better than the RRR for every mode of transit except Vanpool. Washington State Ferries FY2014 Route Statements support the fact that the Farebox Recovery for ferry transportation is relatively high compared to other modes of transportation in spite of the loss of MVET.

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Ferry Fare Collection to Be Incorporated Into State’s Existing Tolling System
In 2018, WSDOT plans to roll out a new system of fare collection, currently handled through two systems: the ORCA and the Wave2Go pass, which will incorporate ferry tolling into the state’s existing tolling system (see the JOINT TOLL AND FERRY CSC FEASIBILITY STUDY FINAL January 30, 2014), which includes more bad news for transportation. The same WSDOT Budget graphic (above) indicates that for the 2015-2017 budget, toll operations and maintenance costs will be $84,900,000, up 24% from the previous (2013-2015) budget, likely due to the I-405 Express Toll Lanes from Bellevue to Lynnwood, controversial in and of itself. Toll Revenues of $127,500,000, mean that 84.0/127.5 or 66.6% of Tolls collected are required to fund management of the system. In fact, Stephanie Klein’s March 2015 article Critics blast new I-405 tolling as money grab aimed at forcing drivers onto buses claims, “As much as 75 percent of the collected tolls will merely pay for the tolling system itself.” I might add here that our neighbors to the north are exempt from paying tolls along this route Why Canadians don’t have to pay for tolls on I-405 because, “Canada has an even tougher version of the U.S. Patriot Act. It will not give up citizens’ information, even for tolling.” Fortunately, only “Two-tenths of one-percent of plates going through the toll system are Canadian.”

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Comparison of Ferry Employee versus General State Government Worker Benefit or Work Rules
The Employment page of the WSF site explains the difference between unionized workers, which include all workers except those in “Management, Engineering, Information Technology and all other Administrative Positions,” who are employed by the WSDOT. Controversy surrounding the WSF has been on the rise for the past five years or so. A 2013 investigation by King 5 News, Another perk for ferry engineers cost taxpayers millions shows one of several a seemingly frivolous expensive-to taxpayers items in the Marine Engineer Beneficial Association (MEBA) contract, “For 30 years, the state has paid about 70 ferry workers – engine room employees who work below deck – to drive to and from work once a week, every week they work. Those collecting this pay work on boats based out of Anacortes and Port Townsend, “…approximatedly $400,000 a year for those weekly round trips.” expense 12-26-2015 11-24-22 AM.jpgA WSDOT publication from January of 2011, “Comparison of Ferry Employee Benefits and Work Rules to General State Government Worker Benefits,” concluded that, “Annual costs for ferry workers in comparison to general state government employees, assuming the same hours worked, same rate of sick leave use, and equivalent length of employment for purposes of calculating vacation accruals, is approximately $6.5 million.” That fact seems to contradict Ed Friedrich’s April 2012 Kitsap Sun article, Survey shows state ferry workers lag in pay behind peers, which showed that, “Shipyard employees lag the market by 5.4%, terminal and vessel positions by 6.7%, and administrative staff by 15.7%,” due in part to workers agreeing to a pay cut. I could not find a more recent version of the “Comparison…” study, but the WSDOT Budget 2015-2017 graphic includes an item for “Compensation” of $43,800,000 for, “employee compensation adjustments due to 2015-2017 collective bargaining agreements,” spelled out in detail in the document, “Governor’s 2015–17 Compensation Plan,” including $14,213,000 for “Ferry Employees (Marine Unions).” Plenty of that is for yearly salary raises negotiated through collective bargaining agreements. That is to say that the salary plus benefits package for unionized WSF workers is significant. As of early December, 2015 Washington State Ferries is looking for 60 new deckhands.

Conclusion
Seattle FerryWenatchee 4-6-2012 5-30-01 PMIn conclusion, the WSF system is not without waste. Costs associated with Ferry employee benefits and work rules compared to those of general state government workers are significant, as are Capital costs associated with terminal maintenance and ferry fleet maintenance and replacement; however, the metric by which the efficiency of public transportation systems are measured and compared, the Revenue Recovery Rate, for WSF is about 75%, at least three times as efficient as all other modes of public transit except Vanpooling. Based on that fact and a non-data-driven analysis, my own experiences during dozens of trips on ferries, I’ve found WSF workers to be both friendly, patient and efficient, which leads me to believe that the WSF system succeeds at their mission, “to make a positive contribution to the livability and economic vitality of our region by providing a safe, reliable, and efficient ferry transportation system.” For more information about the Washington State Ferries, check out their site and WSDOT blog.

Padilla Bay Estuarine Research Reserve

Padilla BayPadilla BayMigrant Trumpeter swans from the north dotted farmlands along the road to my destination a few weeks ago: Padilla Bay National Estuarine Research Reserve in Skagit County. Paraphrasing from the PBNERR site: Padilla Bay is an eight mile long by three miles wide estuary at the saltwater edge of the large delta of the Skagit River in the Salish Sea. In 1980, it became part of the National Estuarine Research Reserve System. Because it’s filled with sediment from the Skagit River, the bottom is very flat, muddy and so shallow that it almost entirely intertidal, which means that it’s flooded at high tide but the low tide exposes miles of mud flats. This allows nearly 8,000 acres of eelgrass meadows to grow. Eelgrass is valuable because it’s habitat for wildlife and commercially harvested animals. Salmon, crab, perch, and herring use it as a nursery. Millions of worms, shrimp, clams, and other invertebrates live there, providing food for great blue herons, eagles, otters, seals, as well as humans. On a sunny Friday morning in late November, I arrived at the compound’s large, nearly empty parking lot along Bayview Edison Road.

IMG_6627Admission is free, but they request donations, so I placed mine in a clear plastic cube and walked past a perimeter wall displaying the story of the Breazeale family’s involvement in the project. They donated the 64 acres on which the interpretive center, built in 1982, stands. Continuing on, I entered a long, high ceilinged room with colorful displays about the estuary and the area’s flora and fauna. Things had changed little, if at all, since the last time I visited during an elementary school field trip seven years prior. I pressed a button to hear taped eagle’d call. It sounded like it’d caught a cold. One display included sand fleas…with legs made of springs. IMG_6629Stationary fish species gazed down from above. The area was clean, neat and informative, but outdated. After reading about the estuary, eel grass, and a nearby heron rookery (Up in the Trees with Great Blue Herons), I made my way to the next section, about the sea.

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IMG_6650Several tanks filled with creatures had been my favorite part of the interpretive center the first time I visited, and were again. Fish swam, shrimp crawled. A sea star, Peach-from-Finding Nemo-style, disengaged an arm from the rocks. Was it beckoning me? Under a curved tank arch, a sign asked visitors to forgive the rubber stuff. What? Fake things in tanks? The rubber version of a Painted anemone didn’t do justice to the ones I’d seen in situ at Deception Pass State Park though a real live Plumrose anemone did. Stuffed birds showed the comparative sizes of owl, eagle, hawk.

IMG_6634IMG_6635Sunlight streamed through the window of the Hands-On Room which I entered next. A mural with removable felt birds and fish beckoned. Games, puzzles and puppets provided ways to learn while playing. Here I noticed the second of only two employees during my visit: a man who greeted me from a room at the back and answered my questions about beavers, which I’ve tried but failed to find in the ACFLs. He pointed out a beaver skull as we commiserated about their elusiveness. He directed me to the trail and offered binoculars, which I declined.

IMG_6664I popped my head into the library, available for public use, then headed to the nearest exit. First I walked towards the road, through a small tunnel and tried to reach the beach, but the tide was so high that I would have hit water at the bottom, so I skipped the steep intimidating spiral staircase and walked up the hill towards the trail head instead.

IMG_6672IMG_6675IMG_6677IMG_6679IMG_6686IMG_6690IMG_6693The 0.8 mile long nature trail lies above the center. Wheelchair access ends early, but the rest is easily accessible to the ambulatory. The path is lollipop-shaped with the stick part at the start. I followed the paved to graveled to woodsy to grassy path through some trees to a huge neighboring pasture filled with unusually furry grazing cattle. Near the end of the loop, a sign warned of bees in the trees, but I didn’t see them as I made my way past. I enjoyed my visit to the Padilla Bay Estuarine Research Reserve including the Upland Trail, which I completed in about an hour. But then, I was the only one there. IMG_6694IMG_6697

IMG_6852I returned a week later and stopped at the west side of Bay View State Park south of the interpretive center, passed by the camping area, crossed under the road, and parked in the lot. Towards the west is a fenced, grassy area with an enclosed-on-three-sides covered picnic area, restrooms, about 20 picnic tables and an information kiosk. An 8.5×11 sheet showed local bird species, but the only live creature I saw, my nemesis bird (the Belted flycatcher), was not shown. At high tide, little of the beach was exposed. To the south it was rocky, while the west and north were sandy enough to build sand castles in warmer weather.

IMG_6831IMG_6850IMG_6845IMG_6846IMG_6848IMG_6847Padilla Bay

Bay View Women's RunBay View State Park is not only a great place for a picnic, but was also the location of the start for the Bay View Women’s Run, held in May, which I agreed to run, last minute, with friends in 2013. It has since moved to the Padilla Bay Interpretive Center. The flat, scenic out and back course follows Padilla Bay. Proceeds support women’s issues. The 2.2 mile Shore Trail (the southernmost two miles shown on the course map below) can be accessed most easily from two locations, a large parking lot about two-thirds mile south of Bay View State Park (a five minute walk from the lot to the trail head) at the north end or a smaller lot adjacent the trail at the south end. Linda Roe’s Trip Report from Washington Trails Association site about the trail is excellent.

IMG_6657Heron Nests 12-11-2015 12-44-40 PMHeron_2012_JuLeeRudolfAfter visiting the Reserve (and since) I wondered about the interpretive center’s display board about the March Point Heronry. Apparently, it’s “one of the largest and most successful nesting areas for Great Blue Herons in all of Western North America.” During nesting season from March to July, a live camera shows the progress of juvenile herons. It isn’t accessible to the public, but I was determined to figure out its location. And did. Because the leaves had fallen from the trees, I  could see a number of empty nests along a short stretch of a nearby street. I’ve taken dozens of shots of these beautiful birds, including this one, my favorite, of one in flight above Dugualla Bay. Find more information about them at The Cornell Lab of Ornithology site, including this about nesting, “Male Great Blue Herons collect much of the nest material, gathering sticks from the ground and nearby shrubs and trees, and from unguarded and abandoned nests, and presenting them to the female. She weaves a platform and a saucer-shaped nest cup, lining it with pine needles, moss, reeds, dry grass, mangrove leaves, or small twigs. Nest building can take from 3 days up to 2 weeks; the finished nest can range from a simple platform measuring 20 inches across to more elaborate structures used over multiple years, reaching 4 feet across and nearly 3.5 feet deep. Ground-nesting herons use vegetation such as salt grass to form the nest.” I can’t wait to return in the spring (when the tree leaves will likely block the view of much of the action).

My advice: on a sunny day during low tide, which you’re more likely to find in the summer, take a day trip to the Padilla Bay Interpretive Center (arrive when it opens), Bay View State Park (Discover Pass required) and the Shore Path.

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